A Few Articles To Keep You On Point

The Wingtip Brogue: A Staple Shoe For Every Gent

duo-toned patina painted wingtip brogues

The Wingtip Brogue

The Wingtip Brogue easily identifiable as one of the most classic pairs of men’s dress shoes on the market, therefore every man should own a pair. They feature a brogue pattern along the sides as well as the toe cap. Broguing is the process of including perforations or small holes around the shoe. This derived from Ireland and Scotland when the outdoorsman needed a sturdy shoe for walking through the bogg. It allowed water to pass through while walking through while on the hunt.

The classic full brogue in this patina finish is perfect for anyone looking for a modern twist on a classically elegant shoe. This particular pair can be worn with grey slacks, earth-toned chinos, and dark denim.

Upper Materials: Denim Crust Patina + Brown Crust Patina

Lining: Red Calf Leather

Sole: Blake Stitched, Natural Leather Plain Sole

Last: Monti – Classic Elegance with Slightly Square Toe

Handmade Patina

The technique used to achieve this artwork is known as ‘Anticatura’, which is the Italian word for antique finishing. It’s a specialty of Italian and French shoemakers. Entrusted to the hands of the antique finisher, the upper part of the shoe becomes a work of art. The Anticatura method is a hand dyeing procedure of leather.

*Visit our custom shoe page to design your very own*

How A Suit Should Fit


It’s easy to sit back and just tell everyone to commission their own custom garments from Bespokuture. However, it’s not a luxury that everyone can afford. So let’s take a look at how a suit should fit.


The Fit

The first thing to understand is that in order for some areas to fit well, others may be slightly off. Often times a consumer will purchase a garment which fits the chest or stomach region, but may miss a key fit elsewhere. This is quite common since suit companies will try and create generic sizes that fit as many customers as possible. And with said, let’s take a look at the two most prevalent and commonly improperly worn pieces.



The Jacket

A suit jacket or blazer will be the most immediate item that everyone sees. Therefore they will quickly notice the fit of the chest and stomach in your garment. Although slimmer fitting pieces are ubiquitous now, there seems to be a blurred line separating slim fit from simply too tight. In case you’re unsure, here are a few tips to keep you away from the danger zone. If the jacket pulls away from the chest or buckles mid-lapel, the chest is too small. It’s also a giveaway if your shoulders are bulging out towards the front of the jacket. Similarly, if the edge of your jacket buckles at the top of your arm, then the shoulders are too wide.

If you find that the jacket puckers at the back of the neck, it just means your shoulders are sloped or your arms fall very forward. However, this does NOT mean that anything is wrong with your body. It’s just that ready to wear (RTW) suits are made for the masses and have a much straighter shoulder line with very little break.
    The sleeve and jacket lengths are defined by the wearer’s preferences but I will give you updated guides in case you’re unsure. If your shirt sleeve falls to your thumb knuckle (base of the wrist) then your jacket sleeve should rest slightly above that. You should show a minimum of 1/4″ of the sleeve but no more than 1″, and that’s if wearing French cuffs. The jacket length should fall right at the bottom of your crotch line or at the bottom of your front pockets if wearing slacks. This will allow for a more modern look without coming up too short.  



The Pants

Pants are unfortunately an afterthought for most men, especially when it comes to dress pants. Especially since we are navigating through a period of slimmer garments and are coming across more and more gents with ill-fitting pieces. A streamlined tapered pant shows well, but it should never be too tight. So tight that you can’t sit down or fit anything in your pocket.

Your pants should also not be large enough that both legs can fit on one side. Ideally, you want the width of your pant to be structured where the cuff covers the top line or opening of the shoe.  When it comes to length, the ever-present rule of thumb is that your pant leg should be long enough to allow for a very slight divot (break) in the pant. However, today’s gents are showing a bit more ankle which was brought about by Tom Ford and the European influence. These days showing skin is okay, but only to a certain extent. We all have ankles, and that’s fine, but people may not want to see the hair on your legs whilst seated in a meeting. It’s similarly uncouth to see dress pants pooling at the bottom of one’s leg!
The very last element of wearing pants is commonly overlooked. This happens to be the waistline. Simply put, if you can’t wear your pants without a belt, Your Pants Don’t Fit! Pants with waists that are too large lead to material bunching. This gives you a disheveled appearance. Instead, opt for no belt loops with waist adjusters and suspenders (braces). You can also have the pants altered at the problem area. Above all, understanding these nuances will completely change your relationship with suits, especially now since you know how a suit should fit.
And if you do decide to have one crafted to fit your exact frame, visit www.bespokuture.com to begin.

Enhance Your Style and Increase Your Income

Enhance Your Style and Increase Your Income

Custom navy pinstripe suitYes, it’s true –  you can enhance your style and increase your income! How is it possible? Well think about this, what feeling do you get when you put on your best suit, dress or pair of shoes? You feel Amazing and with that comes a heightened level of self-confidence. Confidence that exudes and improves how others perceive you. Not only that, but those who are well dressed begin to think more like a CEO and can tackle more obstacles throughout the day.

There is also an onset of bigger picture thinking. Meaning, individuals are no longer as concerned with minor details that may deter from larger tasks. And studies have shown that people will rely on the opinions of those who are well dressed due to the perceived level of power they wield.


Dressing Better for More Money

Dressing well also projects competence in one’s role or ability to complete their job. With this comes increased opportunities as well as promotions. Granted, you can’t just sit on your hands looking great, you still have to perform! But those who “look” better in the workplace tend to accel further and faster.

In a 2014 Yale study (https://www.wsj.com/articles/why-dressing-for-success-leads-to-success-1456110340), two groups of men between the ages of 18-35 were pitted against one another in mock buying & selling negotiations. Those who were well dressed (suits) ended up with a better overall profit than those who were dressed more casually (sweats & sandals). They also ended up with fewer concessions.

Overall, these psychological enhancements can fuel someone to work harder or be more assertive, which can then lead to increased production and a higher income. If you’re considering a change in your wardrobe, begin with the one-up approach. Wear a blazer If everyone in your office is wearing shirts and slacks. If everyone is wearing a blazer, throw on a suit. When you’re at a point when everyone is wearing a suit, then step out and rock the three-piece! Especially one from Bespokuture.

Just remember, you can enhance your style and increase your income. But it does not necessarily make you smarter!

Why You Should Buy A Custom Suit

Custom Suits Are Well Worth The Money!

If you have ever thought “should I buy a custom suit?”, you are not alone. The average consumer is unaware of the benefits of going custom; so we’ll provide a glimpse into the realm of custom crafted garments. In the end, you will understand why you SHOULD buy a custom suit.

The Fit

As the name implies, a custom garment is made especially for you based on your body measurements and style. It is crafted to accommodate your particular form and posture, and can likewise account for sloped shoulders, a short torso, or very long legs. Once a custom fit is experienced, it’s almost impossible to return to an off-the-peg garment that is rarely, if ever, “just right”.

The Selection

It’s easy to find the standard blue, black, or grey suit in stores. However, you have the option to choose from hundreds of fabrics in different patterns, weight, and material composition when you go custom.


The Quality

There is a high level of craftsmanship offered with full or half-canvassed suits. They deliver an exceptional fit that drapes properly and holds very well over time. You will want to ensure that your garments are being constructed with 100% wool or other natural fibers (Check out our fabric selection HERE). Multi-blend substitutes tend to limit breathability, increase the chance of wrinkling, and wear out faster.

The Unique Effect

Taking the above points into consideration, your custom tailored garment will be as individual as your own signature. Whether you prefer a peak or notch lapel, single or side vents, standard or functional cuffs; you will have the option to literally customize and build out every single detail.


The Value of Custom Suiting

A custom garment is well worth the cost, especially when considering all of the advantages. It will outlast your store-bought threads and will undoubtedly set you apart on your dapper conquest.

*Email Us for more info or Click Here to schedule your consultation*

The Truth Behind Super 100



The Truth Behind Super 100


Are you searching for the truth behind Super 100? Well, look no further. We’ll breakdown the history and selling point for Super 100 suits. For starters, let’s breakdown the difference between the two styles of wool suits that you may run into; Worsted & Woolen. These wools are prepared in different ways resulting in a different look and feel. If you were to magnify them, worsted yarns look smooth and have long fibers, while woolen yarns are much hairier with lots of short fibers. Therefore, worsted wools are slick when woven and woolen wools end up being softer fluffier fabrics. Woolen wools tend to be warmer because they are full of air which acts as insulation.

Origin of the ‘S’

In the 18th century, wool merchants would label their fabric as low, medium, fine and super in order to identify the level of quality.  As you can imagine, this process was entirely too subjective for wool merchants in Bradford, England; so new method was created. The merchants would use a scale based on the number of hanks that could be spun out of one pond of combed wool. A “hank” is simply one strand of yarn that is approximately 560 yards long. 


Fast forward to the late 60’s. The Department of Agriculture devised a grading system for wool based on fiber diameter and the standard deviation in relation to each Bradford count. 


Now, Onto The Numbers

When you see suit tags that say Super 100’s or Super 140’s, the number represents the number of times the worsted wool has been twisted. Generally, the higher the number, the finer and lighter the cloth will be. The higher Super count will also mean that it has a smoother texture and appears more luxurious. This, however, doesn’t mean that a Super 80’s suit is a piece of junk. The lower the S number, the “sturdier” the cloth. It is generally heavier and the texture is a bit coarser.

As you can imagine, a Super 160’s wool will feel better on the body since it is much finer; however, it won’t have as much wear because the fabric is more delicate. The higher fabric counts are considered high maintenance and are therefore worn occasionally. Although the finer counts are often more expensive, some retailers take it to the extreme and offer woven counts of Super 220 and above. Be wary of such labels.

A Super 100’s suit, whilst not as fine or smooth as a Super 160’s suit, has greater durability and is much more practical for everyday wear. This should also be considered if you are likely to be in a suit most days of the week.

The graphic below will help guide you on your next suit purchase, to ensure that you are buying based on what you need and not a gimmicky sales pitch. You should now be well prepared to buy with confidence now that you know the truth behind the Super 100.

super 100's suit breakdown

the truth behind super 100 suits

** If you choose to have a suit custom crafted versus buying off the rack, CONTACT US discuss your ideas or CLICK HERE to schedule an appointment. You can also build your very own custom suit HERE and receive it in 4-5 weeks! 

Are Belts Really Necessary?

Are Belts Really Necessary?


Are belts really necessary? That is indeed the question, but do you know how or when NOT to wear one? There are multiple options when it comes to holding up your trousers and here are some of the best option for you.

These days belts are worn for two main reasons, style and function. The style aspect consists of matching with shoes or coordinating with one’s outfit. The latter, of course, deals with keeping your pants from to the ground! However, what a lot of people don’t know is that some belt use can lead to unpleasant health issues. According to Russell Yang, M.D., Ph.D., a professor of gastrointestinal and liver diseases at the Keck School of Medicine at USC, a tight belt or waistband is like a tourniquet around your gut. It ultimately disrupts the flow of your digestive system. 

Tight-fitting pants can also increase abdominal pressure, making it difficult for gas and food to move downward. And when stomach acid goes back up, you’re more likely to suffer heartburn and acid reflux. Additionally, a tight belt magnifies bowel discomfort and stomachaches.

What To Do If The Answer Is No


Luckily, there’s some reprieve. You can elect to not wear a belt at all, but this may take some getting used to. Your pant waist needs to fit properly and you must be okay with open belt loops. If you are wearing a jacket, however, it’s much easier to pull off. The next option brings us to suspenders (braces-UK). Although their popularity dwindled post-1920, they have been making a sartorial return in the past decade. Most suspenders have clips on the end which make it easier to wear with any type of trousers, but some ready to wear or custom made pants will have buttons sewn on the waistband to accommodate ‘button-on’ suspenders. If you are looking to have your own custom crafted, take a look at our available FABRICS

 **Just a friendly reminder – A belt should never be worn with suspenders**


If you are leaning towards custom made pants then you have the option for belt loops, no belt loops, suspender buttons, or waist adjusters (seen below). Omitting belt loops and extending the button tab provides a clean and streamlined look. It also shows that you have taken the time and money to have pants made to fit your exact size. It may feel risky at first, but the outcome is well worth the effort. At this point, your style game will be improved and you will no longer need to ask, “are belts really necessary?” 

are belts really necessary? Not when you can have waist adjusters

If you need help putting together the best look and fit for your body type – Give us a shout and let’s get started today! You can also create your own custom trousers by visiting our design site (Click Here).

Your Wardrobe Contingency Plan

Wardrobe Backup Plan

What would you throw on if you wake up late for work? Or what do you select if you have 15 minutes to get home and change for your date night? Some of you may know exactly what you would wear and others would be completely lost. That’s why (as simple or silly as it may sound) we need to design your wardrobe contingency plan.

Steps To Prepare For Style

One of the easiest ways to set your wardrobe contingency plan in place is to identify as many option sets as possible. For all of your major pieces (jackets, sweaters, shoes, etc.), try 2 to 3 separate pairings including shirts, ties, vests, pants, and socks.
It will amaze you how much time is saved when even the smallest details are taken care of – like your sock color. A good reference point would be to have one safe and one bold option for each of these pairings. That way you’ll be able to make the right statement at any event!
Personally, I like testing the waters and putting on new variations whenever I leave the house. It’s a great opportunity to put together different colors and textures. You can visit our Fabrics page for inspiration!
The benefit of being out in public is that people will readily give you compliments if your look is appealing. That’s certainly one way to know you’re on the right track. However, it’s less about the compliments and more about how you feel when wearing these pieces. Slight tweaks in your choices can breathe life into your wardrobe. More importantly, you will have back up options that are readily available.
Every decision takes time and you don’t want to arrive well beyond “fashionably late” because you just couldn’t decide what goes with what!
As always, if you need a bit of help – feel free to give us a shout! Email Us or visit our Website to design your very own garments.

Suit Shoulder Style: Why Form Matters

Suit Shoulder Style

Have you ever purchased a suit off of the rack and realized that the shoulder padding made you look like a 1980’s wall street exec? Well here are a few pointers to help you understand the modern options when identifying your preferred suit shoulder style. 

Likewise, if you find yourself working with a custom clothier, you should be able to identify the shape that works best for your body and style.


Normal Shoulder

The normal shoulder will be the most common style with roughly 1/2″ or more of padding. This delivers a slight slope and a smooth transition from shoulder to the sleeve head. This suit shoulder style was created to cover the masses, so most retailers will craft their jackets in such a way. Ready to wear jackets may also leave you with puckering in the back if your shoulders are not perfectly straight.




Neapolitan Shoulder

The Neapolitan shoulder style is commonly known as the Naples shoulder or “spalla camicia”. It is an older method from southern Italy that has been resurrected by modern-day dandies. It is crafted with more fabric at the base of the sleeve head and is then bunched together when connecting to the armscye. There is no padding in the Neapolitan shoulder and the added space at the sleeve head allows for greater comfortability. You will only find this in tailor-made suits and is an ideal fit for gents with larger shoulders. Check out our Suit Design Portal to see the many options at your fingertips.



Casual Shoulder 

The casual suit shoulder style is another relaxed option that provides a modern look. It is typically constructed with custom made jackets and allows for a natural drape and fit. There is little to no shoulder padding with this construction and it’s often found in casual blazers.    



High Sleeve Head

The high sleeve head is considered more modern and is also classified as a rope shoulder. It can be identified by the well-defined ridge above the hem. This shoulder style is also crafted at the hands of highly skilled tailors, and will not be found in stores. The high sleeve head tends to be more narrow and rests just above the shoulder.


Not all suits are crafted equally, so be sure to try out a few different looks. You will find that retailers provide suits in either an American, Italian or British cut. However, going custom will give you the best option for your preferred look. Visit our Custom Suit Page to begin!

Lifestyle Hack – Washing Your Dress Shirts

You may still be wondering as to whether or not you can wash your dress shirts at home. Despite what your dry cleaner may tell you, the “crazy” notion of taking care of your own shirts is not just a myth. If done in the right way, you could save hundreds of dollars per month per year.


wash your dress shirts



Washing Your Dress Shirts


It’s actually quite simple but it will take some patience on your part, especially if you have a ton of dress shirts. First and foremost, pay close attention to the tag to see what care instructions recommend for treatment. A quick rule of thumb is to wash dark colors in cold water and light or white colors in warm to hot water.


 Here’s how to do it:

1. Separate the colors and toss them into the washer with a small dose of detergent and run a standard cycle.

2. Transfer the pieces into the dryer and select a “Delicate” or “Gentle” which will run for approximately 12-18 minutes. Essentially, you are aiming to wick away some of the moisture during the tumbling phase without completely drying out the garments.

3. Take out the shirts and immediately iron while still damp. You can also hang them up to air dry, but you will still have to deal with the wrinkles.

So that it’s! 3 easy steps to keep some money in your pocket, as long as you are willing to do the work. Washing your dress shirts at home is just that easy. If you are looking for custom made dress shirts, visit our page HERE and design your very own.





*DISCLAIMER: If you hate washing clothes or ironing, or do not have the time to do either; this process is not for you!


For all the custom crafted garments you may need, visit us at www.bespokuture.com

The Importance of a Three-Piece Suit

custom three-piece suit

If you’ve ever heard me talk about functional wardrobe options, I undoubtedly mentioned the importance of the three-piece suit. This selection will prominently display your modern day refinement and aesthetic prowess. Regardless of whether you are wearing a solid color or an elaborate pattern, the three-piece suit is the best way to showcase your threads.

It goes without saying that you must first get comfortable in your three-piece suit and show off its full glory. In terms of style and appropriateness, this is the dressiest of your business suiting options. You wouldn’t typically wear a three-piece suit to work unless you are the boss, or simply want to outshine them. The full three-piece look gives off a Wall Street executive vibe, so keep that in mind when preparing for your next meeting.



Not Your Average Three-Piece Suit

custom jacket, vest and pants

For a sleek and dapper look with less formality, toss the jacket aside and show off the waistcoat and pant on their own. This set can be accompanied by a tie or bowtie or none at all. You can also leave the jacket out of the equation to allow for more range of motion and better airflow. CLICK HERE for some unique vest options.

Increase your stylish look by mixing up the jacket, waistcoat, and pant. Depending on the fabric, color, and pattern, you can play around with options to achieve a few different looks. This gives you the opportunity to incorporate more colors and textures, or simply break up the uniformity of your three-piece. Hence, the strength and importance of the three-piece suit. You can view our wide selection of fabrics HERE.


custom-made three-piece suit


Ultimately, if you just need a strong and simple option that will fare well throughout the day, go ahead and leave the waistcoat at home. The standard two-piece is a great way for you to tone down the set. 

So no matter how and when your three-piece is worn, just be sure to have one in the rotation. If you need one custom-made, we can certainly help with that by visiting our SUIT PAGE.

How To Dominate In A Navy Suit: The Classic Staple Suit

How To Dominate In A Navy Suit

I am often asked what core articles men should have available in their closets. And I always respond with the need for a navy blue suit. The navy suit is truly a classic garment that stands the test of time.  It also wears well in both daytime and evening settings.

The navy suit is the definitive staple suit due to the ability to pair the ensemble with so many options. With that being said, I’ve included a diagram to help put together a few possibilities for your on-the-go lifestyle. If you need the perfect pieces for your power suit, here are essential links to get you started. In the end, you will be the one to stand out and dominate in a navy suit.

Click any of these to begin the custom journey: CUSTOM SUITS | CUSTOM SHIRTS | CUSTOM SHOES | CUSTOM BELT | CUSTOM BRIEFCASE


what to wear with a navy suit


If you take the time to build up this attire, you will undoubtedly look like a powerful exec. And since navy is such a great option in the business world, you can purchase multiple variations. Try acquiring a solid, pinstripe, windowpane, and Glen plaid to rotate throughout the week. You can easily mix and match your associated pieces (shirts, socks, shoes, ties) with your many options. You can even wear the patterned jackets with your solid pants if you need even more variety. Remember that everyone has a navy suit so make sure you look the best in terms of fit and quality. 

*You can easily substitute black shoes and leather accessories for the ones mentioned*

What To Wear For A Spring Wedding

What To Wear For A Spring Wedding


custom salmon linen windowpane blazer


Spring is upon us and you have more than likely begun preparing for all the spring weddings you will attend. The goal is to keep it light and stylish by first selecting the right fabric. The go-to suiting choice for these wondrous occasions will point you in the direction of cotton or linen. Here we will fully breakdown what to wear for a spring wedding.


Cotton Suiting (including seersucker)

Allows for a relaxed structured garment that looks good with or without a tie. Cotton is lightweight and breathable with a medium wrinkle factor; and if you come across a cotton suit with a bit of lycra, it will provide you with added comfort and flexibility. Click HERE for our selection of cotton fabrics.


Linen Suiting

Is perfect for warmer weather due to its breathability and moisture absorption properties. It is lightweight and very durable which allows for a longer lifespan if cared for properly. Be aware, however, that linen tends to wrinkle very easily.

Whether you choose a cotton or linen suit, feel free to select a 2 ply cotton or linen blended shirt. Lean more towards lighter colors for shirts, accents, and accessories to fall in line with a Springtime flow. Click HERE for our selection of linen fabrics.


If you are bold enough to add custom slippers to the mix, aim for linen. You can visit our custom shoe page HERE. Overall spring colors to consider – (suit) white, cream, khaki, light blue, (shirt) white, pink, lavender, mint green, periwinkle blue, canary yellow. These options will put your style above the rest so that you know what to wear for a spring wedding.

How to Care for Your Suit.. and Other Garments



Earlier this week I came across a wonderful article outlining the steps on how to care for your suit. It had a great deal of useful information but left me wondering.. Do consumers know what to do with all of the other pieces that make up their wardrobe? With that notion, I wanted to share some best practices from head to toe.



Whether you are wearing a felt fedora or linen ivy cap, you never want to put these in the wash or use excessive water. A stiff bristled brush will do the trick to remove dirt. On cotton or linen caps, try warm water and vinegar to remove dirt or stains.


  custom shirts SHIRTS

There is some flexibility with the cleaning options for shirts. Some may only have their shirts dry cleaned, but you can absolutely wash them yourself. If you choose that route, be sure that you are washing on a delicate cycle and using warm water for white shirts and cold water for shirts with color. You can iron them immediately after, or tumble dry on low heat and then iron. This is a great way to save money, however, you may not achieve the same result when picking up from your dry cleaner. So if you have the money, take your shirts to the cleaner and opt for minimal to no starch. Never, I repeat, Never wear your white dress shirts more than once without a cleaning. White shirts quickly accumulate dirt and it is nearly impossible to remove once it sets in. If you need custom dress shirts click HERE.




custom suits - atlanta

To preserve the suit jacket you should always hang it on a wide shoulder suit hanger and use a suit brush to remove lint. If you do not plan on wearing the jacket for a while, have it cleaned and cover with a garment bag. Do not have your jackets dry cleaned more than once every 4-6 months. The chemicals will only expedite the breakdown in the fabric. Instead, utilize your suit brush and have the garment properly steamed. You will find that steaming is a great way to care for your suit. If you try and iron your jacket, you will only succeed in damaging the thread and may even create a ‘sheen’ effect from applying too much direct heat. This mainly happens when the suit has a high concentration of polyester. If you have to wear a suit often, spend the money on a few pieces so that you can rotate them. Visit our SUIT PAGE for design ideas.



custom dress pants - atlanta

For your slacks, follow the same cleaning and caring method as your suit. Never put dress pants in the washer machine. You’ll wind up with a damaged garment and quite possibly in tears. For cotton, linen, cotton blends, denim, etc.; feel free to toss them in the washer in warm to cold water and hang dry if you have the time. Always store wool trousers on a proper pant hanger. You can peruse a wide selection of fabrics HERE.





custom shoes - atlanta

The absolute very first thing you should do with a new shoe purchase is to spray them with an all-weather protectant. When storing, be sure to use shoe trees made of cedar to maintain shape and absorb moisture each wear. Cleaning is pretty simple if kept up. The first step is to remove any dirt or dust. Leather requires polishing and leather lotion at various times. As for suede, you can achieve a clean look with a rubber eraser and a coarse brush. Try using warm water and vinegar when removing deep stains. Likewise, you can get the dirt off of canvas shoes with warm water and a bit of soap. For unrivaled footwear, click HERE.

Now that you know how to care for your suit, just be sure to remain vigilant in your upkeep efforts… and be sure to keep the style flowing.

Choosing Leather Shoes

What hurdles do consumers face when choosing leather shoes? Think about the tons upon tons of shoes on the market at various price points. So many of them are crafted from leather but it’s difficult to determine the exact level of quality. Many shoes are made with a leather upper, meaning some leather was used and the rest is man-made. But how do you know what to look for specifically? Well, we’ve outlined the various types of leather so you can determine how to best spend your hard earned money! For unrivaled custom footwear, click HERE.


The Basics


This leather comes from the top layer of the hide which has ALL of the grain. It refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains and provides the fiber width strength and durability. The natural surface of full grain leather burnishes and beautifies with use.


This leather is the second-highest quality. It has had the “split” layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added. This step produces a colder synthetic feel with less breathability, and it does not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater stain resistance than full-grain leather. As long as the finish remains unbroken.


This leather is the third grade of leather and is produced from the layers of the hide. These layers remain after the top is split off. The surface is usually refinished (spray painted) to resemble a higher grade. It can be smooth or rough.


This is created from the fibrous part of the hide after the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated. During the splitting operation, the top-grain and drop split are separated and can be used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits where the grain has been completely removed. They can also derive from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Luxe suede is a man-made material whereas Kid suede comes from a baby goat. Kid suede is usually softer and lighter in weight because the skin is not tough like that of an adult goat.


Is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather do NOT meet the standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected or sanded off. Then an artificial grain is embossed into the surface and dressed with stain or dyes. The resulting finish is shiny and plastic in appearance, which helps hide the corrections or imperfections.


This leather is a type of coated leather that has a very glossy, shiny finish. The coating process was introduced to the United States and improved by inventor Seth Boyden of Newark, NJ. He ultimately used a linseed oil–based lacquer coating. However, modern patent leather usually has a plastic coating.

Bonded leather 

Is the dust and shavings of the leather glued and pressed together. In the world of leather, it’s pure junk. Leftover scraps are ground together with glue and resurfaced in a process similar to vinyl manufacture. Bonded leather is weak and degrades quickly with use.

Once you’ve found the right shoes, be sure to protect them with waterproofing sprays and use shoe trees to enforce the structure. Remember to remove any dirt or stains as quickly as possible. Also, by rotating through a few different pairs, you can greatly increase the life of your footwear. 

Hopefully, this guide has put you on the right track in choosing leather shoes. If you need more assistance, contact us HERE.

*Click HERE to create your very own high-quality custom footwear*

Fall Style Guide

Business Wear

September is an interesting time in the world of fashion because of all the new fall lines are released. This gives consumers a plethora of options as seasons change and new styles are showcased.

Many of us have some sort of direction when it comes to adopting new styles, while others may feel helpless. It also doesn’t help that office dress codes vary from business to business, but that doesn’t mean you can’t dominate in style! Below, we will walk through some looks that will help you improve your daily office wear.

Dominate in Your Suit

In 2018 the corporate look has become much more relaxed with companies leaning towards business casual. For those corporate warriors that are still required to sport a suit and tie, here are some tips to have you looking like you run the show. First, let’s push those solid black & navy pieces to the back of your closet. These days, it’s perfectly acceptable to meet with your boss or close a large deal wearing a subtly patterned suit. There is depth, character, and professionalism all rolled into one garment. If you are still stuck on wearing a blue suit, then go with a medium or slate blue option. This is the new navy and an option that can be worn as a solid or pattern. Keep in mind however that thick pinstripes will give off a Gordon Gekko vibe. On the contrary, a thinner pinstripe, subtle windowpane, or Prince of Wales check will deliver a look of modern youth and provide you with the confidence to rule the office.


Shirt Styles

Once these new suit styles are acquired, it’s time to identify the right shirt options. Yes, it is very easy to grab your white or pale blue shirt to wear with the new threads, but let’s avoid that urge. Rather, let’s incorporate new hues such as purple, pink, yellow, green, and red. These can be very powerful and sometimes overwhelming colors, but when you find them in soft tones you can put together an acceptable look. Now that you have suits in subtle patterns, pairing solid shirts with them is perfectly fine. But remember, as your comfort level grows try adding some gingham or micro-stripe options to the mix. And don’t be afraid to try French cuffs and different collar styles like a spread, cutaway, or club.

Shoes for Success


What you put on your feet can make or break your outfit and you don’t want to be caught sending a message of carelessness. So step outside the standard oxford or derby box and try out double monkstraps or dress boots. Keeping your shoes polished and rotating between wears can keep up their overall look. You can even kick it up a notch with a burgundy monk or blue/brown balmoral boot. The monkstrap can be paired with your grey and navy suits to upgrade that classic look. They can also be dressed down and worn with dark jeans. Lastly, wearing a dress boot ( which can be worn with a suit or jeans ) will immediately set you apart from the crowd.

What To Wear To Your Next Gala


Yes, it’s that time of year when you find yourself preparing for galas, black tie affairs, and holiday soirées. If you’re like most gents, finding the perfect attire for these occasions can be quite daunting. Unfortunately, some of you wind up on the “what not to wear” list, so let’s review what to wear to your next gala.

The Basics

First, let’s consider the overall look that needs to be accomplished. For any of these events, the typical look consists of dark-hued evening attire. This actually makes the selection process a bit easier when it comes to building your ensemble. Unless… the attire is white tie. Just in case, here’s a quick guide to the various formal looks.

One commonly used method in style pairings is to identify your statement or staple piece. From here, you can build up from your shoes or flow down from a jacket, vest, etc. Since these evening gatherings are typically held in mild to dimly light ballrooms, your shoes are not a focal point (excluding the red carpet). That leaves us to focus on the jacket as the statement piece and building block.


Tuxedo, dinner or smoking jackets are all viable options for such an occasion. The classic tuxedo is the go-to for most black tie events. These days gents are including modern hues like midnight blue, and the omission of the classic cumber bun. In North America, the dinner jacket is the inverse of the standard tux, found in white, mother of pearl, or variations of off-white. The smoking jacket, which was typically worn over the suit after dinner has now been modified, cut down and worn especially for these events. Jacquard and brocade fabrics emerged as go to pieces in the recent years. These options provide a more ornate look to your selection. Overall, you will want these jackets to have a shawl or peak lapel and made with satin or silk facing.



Keep it simple when it comes to your shirt pairing. Whether it be white or black, stick with more formal looking cotton fabrics. A solid twill or royal oxford will be your most formal choices for the best look. If you want a classic look, you can always opt for a pleated or ribbed front; and French cuffs should be your go to.


Keep it simple! Black or midnight blue with or without a satin strip will certainly do the trick. Remember, it’s a formal affair; no need to get too crazy. Remember, your pants should not have belt loops. Instead, they should be purchased or made with a front tab extender and waist adjusters. The absence of a belt helps to achieve a streamlined and clean transition.


When it comes to footwear with these style options, try to resist the urge to wear your everyday work brogues. Two options that will suit you well are the ever-present patent leather oxfords/wholecut, or velvet slippers. Both give off a refined look which says that you know what you’re doing in these scenarios.

When in doubt, reach out for assistance. You don’t want to embarrass yourself and your date by being the only guy at a black tie event in a grey business suit!


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